Auxiliary Drive Belt Tensioner

According to Land Rover the auxiliary drive belt tensioner used on the 300Tdi engines isn't a serviceable item and when a problem occurs the whole unit has to be replaced. The genuine part typically costs over £80 (or over £40 for a pattern component) but most problems are down to wear of the bearing in the rotating wheel which pushes on the drive belt to correctly tension it. Rumbling and squeaking noises from the tensioner are the normal symptoms.

This bearing is fairly simple and cheap to replace, with the whole job taking me about 30 minutes to complete.

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I got my replacement bearing from a motorcycle shop for £6 (it's also commonly used on motorbike wheels) though any bearing supplier should have it in stock. The bearing itself is a 6203-2RS and is fitted with two synthetic rubber seals to prevent leakage of lubricant as well as entry of dust, water and other harmful material. Dimensions are detailed in the diagram below.

Changing The Bearing

After disconnecting the battery remove the viscous coupling and fan to give access to the tensioner.

Using a 15mm ring spanner on the tensioner pulley retaining bolt ( B ), rotate the tensioner anti-clockwise to release the pulley tension from the belt. Detach the belt from the pulley and release the tensioner. Undo nut ( A ) with a 15mm socket and the complete tensioner assembly can now be removed from the vehicle.

Clamp the tensioner body securely (above), using some packing if necessary to ensure it isn't damaged by the vice. With a 15mm socket and breaker bar the tensioner pulley retaining bolt ( C ) is removed by rotating clockwise (left hand thread). Bearing retaining plate ( D ) is removed with the bolt and tensioner wheel.

With the bolt and retaining plate removed the bearing and circlip can be seen.

The circlip doesn't have the usual "eyes" at the ends so standard circlip pliers can't be used for removal. Ensure you wear suitable eye protection incase it springs out when being removed. If you're reusing the old circlip also make sure it can't fly away never to be seen again, a clear plastic bag and a bit of imagination can take care of this. I used a small pointed tool and carefully levered it from its retaining slot ( E ).

The circlip and removal tool.

Turn the wheel over and remove the old bearing using a hammer with a suitably sized socket as a drift - 11/16 A/F was a perfect fit in my case. Clean the bearing housing and circlip slot before putting the new bearing in - again I found a 5/8" W socket ensured the new bearing went in squarely without any damage. If it's a bit of a tight fit then cooling the new bearing in a freezer and warming the wheel can help.

Carefully refit the ciclip and the tensioner is ready to be put back together.

Reassemble the tensioner remembering the bolt is left hand thread so will need turning anticlockwise to tighten.

Refit the tensioner assembly onto its engine auxiliary bracket stud and tighten the nut to 45 Nm. Using the ring spanner on the tensioner pulley retaining bolt, rotate the tensioner anti-clockwise to release the pulley tensioner and allow the drive belt to be refitted. Removing the ring spanner will automatically tension the drive belt. Refit the viscous coupling and fan and reconnect the battery.

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