Namibia & Botswana 2004
Into Botswana
After the fun at the Namibian border post we went through the Botswanan one with no problems whatsoever. We had our passports stamped and paid our road safety fees of 60 pula (about £8.00) which is valid for 12 months then away we went. The road was tarmac and the settlements along the road were so different to the ones we had passed in Namibia. The houses (rondavels) were made out of mud and sticks not just branches tied or woven together and they had a more permanent look about them. We passed Shakawe and made our way to a campsite called Drotsky's which had been highly recommended to us by the S A forums. This was on the banks of the Okovango Delta which is known for its bird and animal populations. When we arrived we found that our pitch had not been vacated by its previous occupants but we were taken into the lounge area and offered cups of tea. It seemed that the campers were wanting to stay longer so we were given another pitch which again had room for at least 3 tents, and which had its own loo and shower as well as a kitchen including fridge and an air conditioned bedroom if we would like to use it. We did make use of the facilities but opted to sleep in our tent due in no small part to the huge spiders which were about (not our favourite animal) !!!.. We soon had the tent pitched and after a brew and a snooze we lit the fire to prepare dinner then along to the bar for a chat. The next morning we actually had our first lie in since leaving Walvis Bay and it was 8 am before we got up.
We needed to stock up on meat etc so after a leisurely morning we went back up the road to the village of Shakawe. We now found what real life was like in this part of the world. After driving around on sand tracks we eventually found the market place which was really busy with children running around, men in groups talking and the ladies either at the 'shops' or selling their meager produce. There appeared to be two shops and it was amazing to realise that they had virtually nothing in them apart from maize, rice and a few tins of vegetables. From the 2 stores I managed to buy some long life milk, a piece of chicken and the necessary bottles of Coke. For meat I was told to go to the butcher. This was across the opposite side of the market place so I warily walked across the sand very conscious of everyone's eyes following me leaving Mike to stay guard over the car. I found this dark little shop where there was a young girl behind the refrigerated counter. I asked for some meat and she pointed out the pieces behind the glass. I pointed to one of the pieces, she weighed it and wrapped it then pointed to the till by the door where another young girl sat. Again it was weighed then I was asked for 4 pula. I needed to check if I had heard correctly - this was the equivalent of 50p. We still don't know what animal the meat came from but we both agreed it tasted like the most expensive steak and melted in the mouth.
Later in the afternoon we went on a boat trip where we saw at close hand some beautiful birds and crocodile.
We had always been told that we were never to leave anything lying around outside the tent or car especially fresh food as there was the risk of it being purloined by inquisitive animals. One such incident occurred while we were at Drotsky's. I was in the bar area when Dave & Kat came in ( we had previously met these two while in Etosha. They were driving through Africa from Germany in their land rover) and asked if the occupants of camp no ….. were there. No they weren't. It transpired that as Dave had walked through he had seen the results of the monkey's playtime !!!! The campers had arrived, unloaded their wolf boxes on the pitch then gone back out again. Taking the opportunity the resident monkeys had done some investigating, got into the boxes and scattered clothing and food stuff all around them. A salutary lesson for all concerned especially as there were notices warning that there were monkeys at the site.
After 3 lazy days at Drotsky's we said our goodbye's and made our way down to Maun which is known as the tourist capital of Botswana. The journey was through ever changing scenery from green and fairly lush vegetation to scrubby bush. Along the road there were numerous little settlements all neat and tidy with all the family washing hanging on the trees and fences. Along the verges cattle, donkeys and goats grazed while travelling on the road were numerous carts pulled by donkeys and carrying people, livestock and bundles of twiggy wood used to roof their houses. It also seemed that every settlement had a mission hut and a school under a tree. This was the Africa as I had imagined it not well kept towns and cities.
When we arrived in Maun it was a cultural shock - from the peace and tranquility of the countryside this was a hot , bustling place. The first port of call was the bank to get some local currency ( we had been allowed a minimal amount to take in with us) The bank were not at all happy with my traveller's cheques but they did accept a photocopy of my passport !!! We eventually got our cash so then it was into Spar to stock up on the food supplies and further along the road to the Maun Rest camp where we were staying for a couple of days. This camp is owned by Joyce who had been so helpful to us with our planning and park bookings but unfortunately she was away on safari so we were destined not to meet up.
The following day we went back into the town where we were able to find an internet for the first time since leaving Walvis Bay so we logged on, read messages from home then updated our news to the forum. It was good to see that new friends in Africa had logged on and updated the folks at home about our whereabouts.
While we were staying at Drotsky's we were told there had been a serious outbreak of anthrax in the Chobe National Park and that the camping sites were closed. As we were booked into the park later in the trip we took the opportunity to go to the parks office to cancel our bookings - we reckoned it would be safer. We also paid the first (of many) visit to Hilary's. We had been told about this coffee shop by other travellers so had to give it a try. Hilary is an ex-pat who has settled in Botswana and her food is certainly to be recommended.
Back at the camp site we were joined by a group of Swiss travellers with 1 Englishman in the party. Later that evening he was amazed and unbelieving that the lads playing around in the river were actually there to have a wash and that the plastic containers they were using would be to carry the river water back to their settlement for cooking etc. There are still many of these settlements even within walking distance of the towns where there is still no running water and/or electricity but everyone has their mobile phone!!!!
It was September 29th what's special I hear you ask - nothing really except today we are heading to our LUXURY CAMP for 3 days. We had decided to treat ourselves and had booked in. Again it was Joyce who had put us in touch with the owner. Meno A Queno which means 'tooth of the crocodile' was set on the high cliff overlooking the Boteti river in the Magagdaki Pans region of Botswana. David Dugmore ,the owner, had previously run safaris into the wilderness areas but had purchased the land on which the camp is now situated and established the camp there to hopefully help the local people and also the fight for the environment.
We left Maun about 9.30am and for once did not have to go through the stocking up with fresh food routine. The first part of the journey was on the main tarred road part of the Trans Kalahari Highway and we had to pass through a vet fence. These fences are rigorously patrolled to prevent the movement of meat through the different areas of the country. Botswana is a beef producing country and unfortunately suffered a foot and mouth outbreak not too long ago. The fences were set up to control movement then and have since successfully prevented further outbreaks. With no meat on board we passed through unhindered and soon turned off onto the minor road heading south eastwards. From the given directions we knew we had to pass through/by the village of Moreomato then we would find the camp on our left - easy you would think- but no we are in Africa. We reached the next village down and knew we had gone too far so we retraced our steps, investigated a track at the crossroads and eventually returned to the original village. There was a young lady waiting at the bus stop (she had been there when we first passed) so we asked her for help. She sent us down into the village where we found the official office of the Head Man. We spoke to him with great difficulty his English was not good and my Setswana is non-existant. The local policewoman then joined us and she offered to take us provided someone would bring her back to the village - no police car there then !- As there were only 2 seats in the car Mike set off with the policewoman while I remained in the village making stilted conversation with the Head Man. He was actually a very nice fellow and I later found out he was doing a lot of good work for the area. After what seemed an age Mike returned having successfully found the camp and logged the distances for our return. We thanked those who had assisted us and gave them our remaining milk and bread which were gratefully received and away we went. It turned out we had originally been in the right place but had not gone far enough along the track. We arrived eventually at the camp and lunch was ready for us somewhat later than planned. It was now around 2.30 pm. The whole journey from Maun should have taken us about 2 hours and we had left at 9.30 no comment TAB.
We were shown around the camp by the 2 students doing their gap time and were left at our tent to rest. The place was a dream Meru tents with open living area complete with day bed and other comfy chairs and a bedroom with a full size bed dressed with beautiful linen. We also had our own bathroom which was a few steps away from the main tent. This was a screened area inside which was a flushing toilet and a bucket shower as well as lovely soft towels and a bath robe each. The floor was soft warm sand. My description can not do the place justice - it needs to be seen.
After a rest we ordered our hot water for showers and got ready for the evening. It really surprised us as to how much water is contained in an ordinary bucket. If someone had said to me there would be more than enough for a good long shower I would never have believed them but there certainly was.
We made our way down to the lounge dining area and finally met David the owner. He had been up in Maun during the day stocking up on food etc and had had the misfortune to have all the meat confiscated at the vet fence he was not pleased. We spent a quiet evening after dinner talking and planning for the next day then went back to our tent by starlight to find that the oil lamps had been lit during our absence - it was magical.
The following morning after a hearty breakfast David loaded up his Toyota safari vehicle with plenty of drinks on ice and lunch and off we went for a day's driving.
We were going to Nxai Pan to see the famous Baobob trees. These are not trees as we know then with woody trunks but they are very soft and pithy and are the home for many insects etc. The fruits, which are very like a Mango to look at are very rich in vitamin C and were eaten by the bushmen. The track leading into the pan was very deep and rutted sand not a smooth ride at all. The first wildlife we spotted were 3 Ostriches running in the grass alongside the track. We then saw that they had with them 10 - 15 chicks. For safety reasons the young are brought up in nurseries by the females with usually one male with each group. We also watched Martial Eagle and Black Shouldered Kites. After spending some time driving on the shimmering white pan we returned to the 'main 'road and crossed over into the Magagdaki Pan which has much more vegetation and home to the larger animals. Here we saw Zebra, Elephant and Kudu as well as the very small Steenbook deer which is virtually hidden by its surroundings. On the way back to the camp we drove through the Boteti river bed and were able to take in the magnificent scenery.
As we drove back to the camp David explained to us the reason for the high chain link fencing. The livestock belonging to the local villagers was constantly being attacked by the animals from the bush causing much hardship. The Wildlife department had in consultation with the villagers erected the fence as a means of protecting their livelihood. The camp was actually inside ie on the wild side of the fence and David was also working with the local community to help them especially the children in the school so that the 2 groups could happily co - exist.
Today had been Botswana Independence Day well known for its exuberant behaviour among the locals so we were very happy to have spent it in such peaceful surroundings.
The following day Mike went off into the bush with David while I stayed in the camp watching all the animals and birds which came to the waterhole below the camp. These waterholes are essential for the animals as otherwise they would be forced to migrate long distances away from their home territory in order to survive.
When Mike returned he reported that they had seen lion, elephant, and rhino as well as numerous birds of prey. Another memorable day came to a close following dinner and chat with David's brother, a right character, who works in Maun making furniture etc from scrap metal. It seems he made the furniture in our tent so it proves that in these surroundings nothing is wasted.
After a slow pack up the next morning we said our goodbyes to Richard and Karen who had looked after us in camp and with David showing us the way we left Mena a Queno and headed off to the Rhino Sanctuary in the south east of the country where we were planning to spend the next 3 days but that is another story.
The journey across the edge of the Kalahri Desert was on a tarred road but it contained so many potholes that it was smoother and safer along the verges. We passed through the restricted diamond mining area of Orapa and on down to Serowe where the Sanctuary was. We arrived there fairly late by our standards about 4.30 pm and were told that the camping site was full. That's no problem thought I we're booked. No we are full came the reply. For the first and only time during the trip I became annoyed. Eventually the officer conceded that we did have a booking for a specific site and after paying dues we went off to find it only it was occupied. We returned to the office and were met with shrugged shoulders.
Mike went to see if he could find another pitch and came back with the news that there was plenty of room so we made camp, had a quick meal and went to bed. The next morning we found that the ablution block was the filthiest we had experienced so we decided to cut our losses and leave but not before we had registered our complaints with the assistant manager and got our money back. We have since found out that this is a regular occurrence and it is a pity as it is a community based project to help the local people.
We continued on our journey heading back northwards through first of all a quite industrialised area before the inevitable bush re-appeared. We stopped for breakfast at the bustling cross roads town of Palpaye where we found a Wimpy Bar which was well patronised by travellers on this south north highway. Some of these were ex-pats and our journey was again delayed with lots of conversation. We eventually set off again and on our way north met a lot of traffic heading southwards. We were given to understand these were mainly revellers returning home from the celebrations or Sth Africans returning home from a weekend at the ranch. It was during this journey that we were pulled off the road and into a Police Check Point. This was part of the ongoing road safety campaign currently being held. Drivers were told to park their vehicle and go into the tent where they listened to a road safety lecture and were handed a number of safety leaflets and a condom - the mind boggles!!!!!! We were assured that with prevention of Aids so high on the agenda all possible efforts were being made to educate people. But just imagine if such a campaign was carried out here on the A1(which this road was equivalent to) how people would react and the traffic jam consequences.
We arrived at Nata Lodge at about 3.30 and booked in. after our previous night's experiences we will decide later if we are going to stay longer than 1 night. We selected our pitch and parked the Land rover - too hot yet to start pitching the tent so we wandered over to the restaurant area and had a welcome cup of tea. About 5. 30 we put the tent up kindly assisted by some friendly Sth. Africans - it's so much easier with 4 of you !!!! then after dinner we returned to the bar to watch the antics of the Bush Babies. By the following morning we had decided that we were going to stay for a couple of days so went to extend our booking and also book Mike in for some quad bike riding. And we spent a lazy day talking to fellow travellers of all nationalities and watching drivers attempting to drive through a patch of deep sand next to our tent ( we didn't deliberately pitch there honest !!!!) There was a big notice saying 4x4 vehicles only and although we were driving through with no problems in the L.R. as was a Sth African TD5 the Toymotors, Dtsun Bakkies and New Range Rover all had to stop and engage before struggling through.
The next day we were up reasonably early for Mike to go Quad biking. He thoroughly enjoyed the experience being taken out by a good instructor / guide. On his return we treated ourselves to lunch in the restaurant then continued being lazy.
We were up early the next morning and by 9 we were on the road north. Our next stop was Kasane on the border with Zambia and Zimbabwe and from there we were going to explore the Chobe National Park and also visit the Victoria Falls.
Next: Up North - Botswana