Namibia & Botswana 2004
Up North - Botswana
We were up early next morning as usual and all packed up ready to leave Nata Lodge at 8.50am promising to return after our visit to Kasane. We had 300 kms to travel today along a tarred straight road which is the main north/south road between South Africa and Zambia/Angola. For the most part the road was a normal 2 way road with the usual faint white line down the middle but in 3 places during the journey it widened out and became a ‘no stopping’ area. It transpired that each of these sections were actually landing strips for small aircraft – I’m pleased we did not encounter any during our journey. We also noticed in places that the bush at the side of the road was being burned off. We found that this was to create clear areas which discouraged the elephant and buffalo which live in the area in great numbers and present a traffic hazard. This was brought home to us when we found a burned out double trailered artic upside down on the side of the road. Locals told us that the driver had met up with a wandering elephant on the road with the inevitable consequences. A witness to the event said that although the driver was killed instantly and the vehicle destroyed the elephant had just wandered back into the bush !!!! They are huge animals.
We arrived in Kasane about 1.00pm and found a bustling newly constructed township and went straight to Barclays to change some traveller’s cheques. For once we had no trouble at all except for the ‘tomorrow isn’t here yet’ speed. Then it was into Spar to stock up on the food and the bottle store for the Coke and dry lemon – a new found favourite to help quench the dry throats. We made our way to the Chobe Safari lodge which had come highly recommended and booked after checking there was electricity available on the camp site. (We had been told this while at Nata but one learns very quickly TAB) we paid for 4 nights and made our way to the camping area. Despite driving round quite a few times there was no sign of any electricity points and on making enquiries were told yes, there’s a socket in the toilet !!!!! Who carries a hook up cable that long? We were not happy so returned to the lodge and were refunded all our fees with no problem so we then went back through the town to Kubu Lodge where we had a very warm welcome, given a pitch with electricity and settled ourselves in. There’s still some spiders though!!!
The next morning we went back into town to get some $ as we were going on the long awaited trip to Victoria Falls and we had been advised to use dollars and credit card so as not to get any local currency which outside of Zimbabwe is valueless. We did a bit more shopping including a huge washing up bowl which was marvellous for soaking tired and grubby feet. Back at camp Mike made a fire and we had pancakes for lunch – why do even the simplest things taste so wonderful when cooked in this way?
In the afternoon we went out on a boat trip on the River Chobe. This was going to be the best way of seeing the wildlife as the roads in the Chobe National Park were closed due to an outbreak of anthrax. We first heard of this outbreak whilst we were at Drotsky’s Cabins 2 weeks earlier but the authorities were still denying the seriousness of it.
The birdlife (feathered variety) along the river was absolutely superb, African Snake Birds (from their long snaking necks), brilliant coloured Malachite Kingfishers, Egret, Spoonbills and Pelicans as well as an abundance of Crocodiles, Hippos, Elephant, Baboons, and Warthogs. We even watched as a group of Ellie swam across the river holding their trunks above the water level. As we watched yet another magnificent African sunset we saw a victim of the anthrax outbreak, an elephant, being eaten by a group of crocodiles and vultures. This is how the anthrax is being spread but the authorities appear to be turning a blind eye to it.
As we returned to Kubu Lodge we saw more fires by the roadside just outside the boundaries of a small settlement. Our driver told us that this was their way of decimating the snake population and preventing them from entering the houses. He also told us that Chobe Farm, a large commercial fruit growing enterprise (the only one in the country) was also suffering from the numbers of elephant in the area who took a liking to the citrus fruit being grown there.
The next morning we were up fairly early and for the first time put on our smart clothes! Today we were going to be proper tourists and be taken into Zimbabwe to see the Victoria Falls. We had the choice of seeing the Falls from either Zambia or Zimbabwe but had been told by numerous people that the latter was certainly the most spectacular so we chose that option even though we had misgivings about going into the country ruled as it was. We left about 8.30 and were very surprised to find that even though the trip was organised by the lodge we were the only travellers in a private car with our driver called Fox. Soon we arrived at the border post and quickly (by Botswana standards) completed the formalities including paying $55 USA each for a visa lasting 24 hours. The journey to Victoria Falls took about 1 hour. We went straight to the Falls entrance gate where Fox told us not to change any money or buy anything from any of the street traders and he would collect us in 2 hours. Mike’s first thought was –‘what do we need 2 hours for’. So through the gate we went and paid our $20 entrance fee.
The sight and sounds that met us were indescribable – the falls themselves are about 2kms wide and the walk had viewpoints from all angles. At this time of year, October, the water is probably at its lowest levels yet the roar of the water and the mist it produced left me breathless. This is a place to be alone with your own thoughts and the memory bank wide open. All too soon it was time to go back to meet Fox. We now knew why we had been given 2 hours. We would have spent longer but there was more to see.
8th October 2004: Victoria Falls.
After we left the Falls we were taken across the bridge over the gorge and very briefly set foot in Zambia. Leaving the car in the care of some local youths we walked back onto the bridge which serves as a footbridge, road and railway line. The view over the edge was awesome to say the least and we even watched some intrepid/foolish people bungee jumping down into the gorge. After this quick visit we returned to the town where we were taken to Ilola Lodge for lunch. Our first impression was ‘help! have we got enough money!' This was right back in the days of colonialism. We were taken through to the dining area on the terrace where we were given the full works. My comment was Ritz eat your heart out!!! Our one concern was that when the waiter took Mike’s credit card at the end of the meal he was away with it so long we wondered how many copies had been cloned!!!! (Our surprise came after we returned home & got the bill – it amounted to approximately £10).
Our next port of call was the local Craft Market. I had been really keen to visit this and buy some goodies to take home however we were so hassled by the over enthusiastic sellers that we bought nothing and were actually pleased to leave the place. Don’t get me wrong the goods on sale were wonderful and just what we wanted but the stallholders were too aggressive to the point of being frightening. Before we left for our drive back I asked Fox to take me to a shop where we could buy more water. Although we went to 3 shops it was impossible to buy any. This showed the true situation in this country where the people are trying to scratch a living yet their rulers are living in luxury. The return journey to Kasane was uneventful passing easily through the border posts and collecting yet more stamps in our passports. A beautiful day.
On our return to the lodge we met the owner of a safari company who builds his own extended body Land Rovers so spent the evening talking to him, examining each others vehicles and being offered the use of a workshop in Maun if it was needed. It seemed they had plenty of suspension parts but engine bits were very thin on the ground. Again we found the friendship and helpfulness among the LR fraternity.
10th October 2004: Bush Ways 150.
The next morning was spent quite leisurely sorting out in camp then going into the town to stock up on essentials for our trip back to Nata where there are no shops except for the garage. We also visited the Hot Bread shop which had been recommended to us. The recommendations were not exaggerated and we tasted the best bread we’d had since leaving the UK. ( The problem out here is that the bread does not keep. It is edible the day it is bought but after that it isn’t even good enough for toast).
Later in the afternoon we were joined by a young couple at the camp, driving a land rover of course. It turned out they were wildlife film makers and worked with Haydon’s father to produce video footage for TV including the BBC. We spent the rest of the day chatting to them, getting tips for the rest of our journey and also on putting up the new tent.
The next morning we planned to be away early but of course with new friends to talk to it was almost an impossibility and it was around 9. 30 ( late by our standards ) when we finally said cheerio. The journey back down to Nata was uneventful even when passing through the vet fence. We had to walk through the foot bath before driving the car through but we were lucky in that there was no inspection of the contents of the fridge although the meat had been safely stored away.
We arrived at the Lodge just on lunch time so had lunch beside the pool opting for omelette salad and chips plus drinks for the vast sum of P56 (£7) for both of us. It appeared that our camping spot beside the 4x4 track was available again so we put up the tent and eventually started to prepare dinner. At this point the wind started to get up and the sky grew dark. I commented to Mike that if we were at home it was about ready to tank it down! The words were hardly out of my mouth when the thunder and lightening started and then down it came – cats and dogs was a mild expression. We grabbed the dinner off the grill and headed into the tent where we ate it perched on the wolff boxes which formed the bedside tables. The lightening lit everything up and the rain lasted about 40 minutes. The sky cleared and everything was back to normal except the air was so fresh and clean.
The evening was spent chatting in the bar where again we had proof of an extremely small world. While talking to a South African couple living in Malawi we found their son was being taught at school by an ex colleague of mine from Billingham.
It’s Monday, October 11 and we are into the second half of our adventure, time is flying by and there is so much more to do and see and no doubt people to meet. After a lazy morning making sure everything was safe after the storm we went to the local bird sanctuary which was situated on the salt pan. We had heard conflicting reports of the place and the amount of wildlife there was there but we were not disappointed and found lots of water birds on the river which was fairly full by local standards and the highlight was probably seeing the nest of a Lanner falcon with 3 chicks in it. The parent allowed us to sit and take photos at fairly close range once again showing how the wildlife is not deterred by humans. Later back at camp we met a German couple who were actually back-packing round southern Africa before heading off to Chile. When we consider the people we have met it again reminds us that this would never have happened if we had gone along with the crowds and come out on an organised safari trip.
Next morning we left Nata and headed off along the main roads to Maun. About 20 kms from our destination we were flagged down by the occupants of a parked car who pointed out to us a group of Elephant in the bush along the side of the road. It turned out that these were 2 government officials. We turned the car round to watch but found that 1 of the group wouldn’t cross the road. We all got back into the cars and straight away it headed over and joined the rest of the group heading into the Nxai pan. We arrived in Maun in time for another lunch at Hilary’s then to the bank for some more money. Although we knew that Botswana was more expensive than Namibia it seemed it was even more so than we thought – we were certainly short of Pula - never mind it is a once in a life time trip. After shopping we headed off to Maun Rest Camp where we pitched up and were luckily finished eating when again the rain started. The camp is on the bank of the river and it was fantastic to see the lightening moving round the sky in waves not short sharp bursts as we have at home. We spoke to yet another German couple who told us it had rained all the way up from Jo’berg so it seemed the summer rains had started early and here we were with not a cag between us. “It doesn’t rain till December” was what we had been told!!!!
At last we were about to head into Moremi one of the Botswana’n National parks. We went into town to fill the tank and the jerry cans because unlike the parks in Namibia these parks had no facilities whatsoever so we had to carry enough food, water and fuel for 3/4 days. The road out of Maun was tarred for the first part of the journey but at the village of Shorobe that gave way to deep sand. We eventually arrived at South Gate ,the entrance to the park where we should have had our paperwork checked but the official was not particularly interested and told us to go straight up to the camp site at Kwai. When we arrived there we were not particularly impressed especially with the facilities which amounted to one toilet each for male and female with a cold water tap – now we knew why Joyce had said that no self respecting Botswanan would camp in the parks. These camp sites were also wide open and all the animals including the big cats and elephant able to pass through unhindered. We set up camp, had lunch then went out for a drive where we saw plenty of Hippo, Gazelle Zebra etc but no cats. After dark we found the baboons and hyena wandering around the site – not very pleasant when walking to the loo with no lights either.
This area is absolutely stunning and so much greener than we had previously been accustomed to but if the authorities want people to come and visit then they must make provision for them especially when their cost of visiting the area is so expensive and we now know that you can have equally good sightings of the wildlife outside the park borders for much less cost.
After 2 nights here at Kwai and still no-one interested in having our money we headed south to another camp at Xaxanaxa. This was supposed to have better facilities and in some ways the toilet blocks were better but the litter problem still exists. The rubbish bins were supposed to be baboon proof but were definitely not. If they are unable to keep the places clean then they should insist that everyone carries their rubbish out of the park. Again there was a great variety of wildlife from the little dull birds to the hippos and elephant. While driving in the area we came across what we originally thought were 2 or 3 elephant were actually a herd of 30+. We had stopped the car to watch the original few go across our track then realised we were absolutely surrounded by these huge beasts. Although none of them were showing signs of aggression it was not an idyllic situation to be in so we waited till they had crossed both in front and behind us then turned the car round and beat a retreat.
Although the area and wildlife were wonderful we both decided that the next morning we would pack up and return to civilisation. When we got up the next morning we found that we had had visitors during the night - the baboons had helped themselves to the Clime-air from the passenger door no doubt because we had not left them any food around. After dismantling the camp we made our way back to South Gate where the officials were about to wave us through before having second thoughts and asking for our park fees. As it was they only charged us for 2 days instead of 4 showing once again the lack of organisation. Our one disappointment had been that we had not seen any cats at all during our visit but shortly after leaving the park we saw one sleeping under a tree who quite happily allowed us to take photos of her. It was a long hard drive back down to Shorobe not helped by the numbers of local vehicles bringing tourists into the park for the day/weekend, driving like maniacs towards us in the middle of the road but we eventually made it, got back onto the tar road and arrived in Maun at lunch time. As we had not eaten except for a cuppa at 5.30am we went straight to Hilary’s to find she was not officially open due to a judo tournament at the gym next door, however she made us some lunch (would that happen in the UK?) then it was off to find a ’hole in the wall’ and again stock up with food before we set off on the drive to Ghanzi which was our next planned stop-over en route back into Namibia. Maun is a funny place, bustling with locals and tourists while donkey’s forage for food in the rubbish bins.
We left Maun along the Trans–Kalahari highway and it soon became obvious that the latest paper maps we were using were totally out of date so I used the iPAQ and t4a maps and my confidence in it grew as it was obvious from the road itself we were on the right track. Late afternoon we arrived at the village of D’kur which according to the ‘book’ had a camp site by the craft shop. It was obvious from the noise in the village that there was a local election meeting being held so we headed straight for the craft shop which was totally deserted. As often happens when strangers arrive in the village before I had time to return to the car a group of youngsters appeared. I asked them as best I could about camping and they told me to go to the church over by the bell. We took them at their word and drove across to be met there by one of the ladies from the village - bush telegraph travels fast in these parts. She welcomed us to the village (in good English) and proceeded to tell us where to take the car while she went for some keys. She soon returned and showed us into one of the bathrooms where the facilities were very adequate and the water very hot. She then said we could pitch our tent outside the room or we could use the ‘hut’ for the night. My first response was ‘could I see the room’ ‘no problem’ and the door was opened for me. Inside there were 4 ‘single’ beds which Mike promptly referred to as the missionary beds so narrow you couldn’t turn over in them, which were made up with crisp white linen and covered with bright African blankets. My next surprise came as I asked the cost – a room for the 2 of us was the same price as a camping pitch!!! (P35 /£4.50). As the time was getting on and we hadn’t eaten my immediate answer was yes please. Our new friend then showed us a huge enclosed fire space where we could cook our meal, so with no further ado Mike got started on the fire while I made a brew up and all the while we were surrounded by the smiling black faces of the village children. As this was the central mission church for the area we can only assume that these little rooms were there for visitors to the mission and were let out at other times. Certainly a way of raising much needed money for the church. We slept well and after breakfast visited the little Church which was wide open . The single high vaulted room was painted bright white and facing a very simple communion table and reading desk were rows of chairs. The wall behind the reading desk had banners depicting in Setswana the opening words of Psalm 23 accompanied by a mural of the same.
After visiting the church we left and were waved on our way by many of the children and their smiling mums. Even people waiting on the main road at the bus stop waved as we passed. As we continued along the Highway we began to pass through the cattle ranching area with the vet fence to prevent the transmission of disease but we passed through with no problem and were soon on our way to the border. Again we had no problems with the actual formalities but on leaving the post after paying our Namibian road charges we were stopped by a very officious police officer who demanded to look in the car. Mike opened the rear door where the officer was confronted with a wall of wolff boxes. He then demanded to see the fridge and asked for any steak or chicken. He wasn’t very happy when we told him we had neither but he let us go. Thinking back it was typical of stories we had heard of the border guards confiscating meat simply for their own meals, and quite often travellers cook or burn the meat there and then rather than hand it over.
Back in Namibia we became aware of how much cleaner the countryside was than what we had just left. About 60kms along the road we were taken aback to have 3 Porsches and a Volvo speed passed us in the opposite direction and each was towing a trailer!!!!
We passed through the town of Gobabis which was deserted and continued on the road towards Windhoek. We called it a day when we reached the Kalahari Inn where we decided to stay at their camp site. While walking around the site we met up with a young German couple whom we had first met at Nata. They were just finishing their trip and they recommended that we eat in the restaurant that night. We took their advice and had the most wonderful meal imaginable with impeccable personal service and it cost around £20 for the two of us.
We had another 14 days left so we now had to decide where we were going next but first it was off to Windhoek to see about a fault which had developed with our new tent.
Next: The Last Leg