Namibia & Botswana 2004
The Last Leg
We left the Kalahari Inn and headed off into Windhoek feeling rather apprehensive. We hadn't been in a big town for quite some time and the volume of traffic and people not to say one way streets was quite daunting. After a few trips round the block we found Cymot and parked in their car park. That in itself was a relief! The person we were supposed to meet wasn't there but we were well looked after and soon the tent was being pitched in the car park so they could see the problem. Not only did they agree about the eyelets coming away but they decided that the tent did not pitch correctly and also that we had not been given all the correct poles in the first place. After a phone call to the branch where we had bought it and another to head office we were given a brand new tent with great apologies from all concerned. Some of our stores could have learned a lot about customer relations. We were even taken into the shop's coffee shop and given refreshments 'on the house'.
Leaving there we then went to the Wildlife Office to book some nights back at Halali in Etosha. We had planned to travel south at this point but our hearts ruled our heads for once and we decided we wanted to return to Etosha instead. We left town and its bustling streets and headed off north to a place called Okahandja. Various people we had met during our travels had said that this was the place for crafts.
We found a camp site on the outskirts of the town, pitched up and went to investigate the town itself . We didn't have far to look to find the market as it was stretched out along the roadside at both ends of the main street and our first impression was that it was a much more friendly place than the market in Victoria Falls. There was certainly none of the aggression. As usual we had left the car with the street boys and on our return made to hand over the usual dollar only to be asked for food instead. All we had with us were a few rusks which had been in the car for about a fortnight but they were gratefully received - in fact the lad ate them as though he hadn't had a bite for days and then gave some to his mate. We had a quick look in Spar, bought our dinner then returned to the camp site.
We had a lazy morning next day then decided to walk into the town to visit the market. We spent almost 3 hours looking at all the little stalls and buying our bits and pieces to bring home. We were also intrigued to see them at work using old refurbished tools to make the intricate carvings. One thing that did strike me was a young boy who had an up to date MP3 player but told us he had no batteries for it. When I complimented him on his English he very proudly replied 'thank you I go to school'. Education is important to these people as they realise it is the way to better themselves. By this time the rain had started so we made our way back to the camp site for a belated lunch. In the afternoon we returned to town to Spar where we stocked up for our trip into Etosha. The meat at this place was really good and they were prepared to vac pack it for us - none of your plastic trays and cling film pre-packs - everything was weighed and wrapped freshly. Back at the camp I went to do some washing having been offered the use of the machine - a rare treat - It was an old fashioned twin tub in good order and the boys were amazed when I showed them how to connect the hose up to the tap to rinse the clothes they used to fill jugs and pour it in!.
The next morning we decided to travel up to Etosha and although we were going a day early we had no trouble blagging our way in.
What a difference some rain makes - it was a completely different place to the one we had left some 5 weeks earlier. Now we knew why we had made the decision to return. There was water lying in pools along the sides of the tracks and there were green leaves on the trees instead of brown dried ones. After we arrived at Halali we chose our pitch then walked up to the waterhole. On our last visit at 4 in the afternoon the place was heaving with elephants - this time it was deserted. As we had driven through the park we had noticed large herds of Springbok and Zebra on the pans whereas previously they had been in small numbers and widely scattered. They were enjoying the water and the fresh green shoots of grass which were pushing their way through the earth.
As we were preparing dinner the lightening started visible beyond the waterhole and by the time we had finished eating the rain was pouring down so it was off to bed. About 11 30 we were wakened by a huge clap of thunder and the sound of voices. The overlanders who were camping just across from us had woken to find the water running through their tents so were moving everything into the eating area! The rain continued for some time but our tent was fine.
We woke next morning about 6 to find it was still raining but by 6 45 it had cleared and it was a beautiful morning and the light was superb. On getting out of the tent we saw the extent of the overnight rain. Huge pools of water spread throughout the camp site. The water hole was deserted but we spent a peaceful half hour taking in the solitude and silence. Going out for a drive again we found that the animals had scattered away from the tracks due of course to the amount of water that had fallen. Up till this point our one disappointment was that we had not seen any big cats.
Early the next morning we were headed along the main road through the park when we spotted through the binos a lone lion sitting by what on first sight seemed to be a large rock. This turned out to be the carcas of a Wildebeest which she was guarding. We watched her for a while then drove further down the road. On our return with the lightening starting to flash we found that she was still sitting in the same place. As we travelled the rain became torrential but back at Halali there was very little. It seems that the rain is very localised.
The next morning we were up early as usual and decided to drive back down the road to where we had seen the lion yesterday but there was no sign of her or the kill. Further down the road we came across some parked cars and there not 50 yards from the road were a pride of lions. There was 1 male and 4 females at a kill with a group of 6 or 7 jackal looking on. Soon a 2nd male joined the party then lay down a short distance from the others, then another one appeared. Soon one of the females left the group and walked over to one of the newcomers who showed signs of interest in her but she smartly cuffed his face and made her way to the other male and the pair made their way to the pool of water at the side of the road to drink before heading off into the bush. After all the females had finished eating the rest of the group followed in the direction of the first pair after drinking at the pool completely unphased by the car parked nearby. By this time we had been there for about two and a half hours. We went for a drive and on our return to the kill found vultures devouring the few remains.
The following morning we were again fortunate to see another lion not too far from the camp. These sightings certainly made up for the lack of cats during the first part of our trip.
We now knew why we had returned to Etosha. The difference made by the rains was unbelievable - the place was green and growing not dead and brown. It certainly brings home the reality of people trying to scratch a living from the dry dusty earth so familiar in the news programmes on famine in Africa.
Next morning we left Etosha and headed westwards into Damaraland. We first made our way to Khorixas where we spent the night. The road through the mountains was spectacular after the dry dusty bush we had become used to. On turning a corner the road suddenly became winding and hilly - so different. It was at Khorixas we had our first brush with trouble. Around 5 am we were wakened by our car alarm going off. We listened but could hear nothing untoward so settled down again. On getting up Mike inspected our car and found nothing amiss so we agreed it must have been the resident moggy. Then we were visited by the leader of an overland group who informed us that their truck had been broken into and clothing and film taken while a chap staying on the site while working in the area had had his tool box taken from his Baccie. We were lucky !! but where were the security guards who were on duty all night? The common agreement was that they were either involved or had turned a blind eye.
As we travelled on to Uis the scenery changed again from the green hills to the rocky gem mining areas. Unfortunately these areas of industry are now closed down but the colours of the ground change to yellow, brown and red according to the mineral content found in the earth . This is Herero country and along the roads were ladies dressed in the typical Victorian style dresses which were first introduced by the missionaries as being decorous when compared to the lack of clothing which is a feature of the Himba people.
The desert seemed to stretch for ever but eventually we reached the salt road which took us to Henties Bay right on the west coast. Although it was mid afternoon when we arrived it was decidedly chilly in comparison to what we had become used. We soon found the camp site and for once the tent went straight up. Each pitch at this site had its own washroom and kitchen making the pitch size quite small but it was certainly enough for our needs. When we arrived we were the only people there but apparently it is absolutely full come Christmas and New Year when whole families from Namibia and South Africa arrive to spend the holiday fishing.
The next morning we woke to what was a typical north east coast drizzle. We had been told about this but it needs to be experienced. The air is warm but the body feels wet. After breakfast eaten in double quick time we headed northwards along the Salt road to Cape Cross the world famous breeding ground for Cape Fur Seals. As we drove into the reserve we met a contingent of Land Rovers coming towards us. The first was a Defender whose driver duly waved to us. It was followed by 5 new Discos whose drivers did not wave but the driver of the final Defender did. We later found out they were evaluating the new model and were journalists on a freebie!!!!
When we reached the beach we found it full of seals of all ages and sizes from the huge males staking their territory through the many females making up the harem to the tiny little pups who were about 6 months old. The noise was deafening and the smell well definitely fishy. We spent some time watching their antics and taking photos then made the journey back down to Henties Bay. The road is called the Salt road because the surface is made of - yes you've got it - salt mixed with other aggregates and compounded into a hard surface which looks like tar but is very smooth and in the wet can be extremely slippery. Driving back we had the south Atlantic on our right and the dunes on our left changing colour with every turn of the road. It was hard to imagine that plants would actually grow there but they did and in fact some of the areas are designated as reserves with no access.
The dampness of the day continued into the evening and although we made a braai as usual we ate dinner very quickly wearing for the first time shirts and jackets. Mike even pulled on his woolly hat.
A damp grey morning greeted us as we awoke about 6.30 and we soon packed up and had breakfast. The tent looked really forlorn as it lay in a heap on the sandy ground - did it know it was nearly the end of the journey? As we were packing up one of the 'boys' working on the camp site came across to us bringing a huge fish as a gift from the owner of the site. It just went into the fridge standing on its nose.
We drove away from Henties Bay down the Salt road towards Swakopmond passing the lichen fields on our right and the fishing grounds on our left. We passed straight through the town then a few miles further on we stopped on the sea shore for a cuppa. The sun shone, the sea glistened and it was so peaceful even though the main road was only 500 metres away. It was hard to believe that a few miles further north we had been in thick mist.
On arrival at Walvis Bay we first went to the shipping office to arrange for the car to be shipped home and were greeted with the news that the ship we were booked on had been delayed for about 3 weeks. I left Michael, the shipping agent, with various phone numbers and under instruction to get it sorted out but of course this is Africa and urgency is not in their vocabulary. We then went straight down to the lagoon coffee house for lunch and then to Andre's where we were staying for the next week till we flew home.
After talking ourselves hoarse we set about cooking dinner which of course was the big fish. It was cooked on the fire wrapped in foil and it was wonderful. The head and tail was given to Mina the house girl who was over the moon with it as she would use it to make broth at home.
The next morning was certainly a lazy one sorting everything out and then going into town to shop and get the Land Rover cleaned. It cost us the princely sum of £5.00 and we didn't know it could be so shiny!!! The rest of the day was spent relaxing in the sunshine and chatting to people we had met when we first arrived.
Sunday started off being very lazy then mid afternoon we went out with Andre and his son to meet some other friends to go off into the dunes to do some driving. We had a fabulous exhilarating time but I still can't relax as we go 'over the top' and straight down the other side like a toboggan. Mike quickly got the hang of driving in the deep sand but had to be persuaded by Pete that the difflock was not needed. Pete often takes people out into the dunes as a guide so he was able to give us a lot of the history of the place which made it even better.
On returning to civilisation we were met by a group of children of varying ages who were all dressed up to celebrate Hallowe'en. Unlike the kids at home who pull on a mask and carry a candle if you are lucky then come begging for money. These youngsters were all dressed up as witches, ghosts and mummies and were visiting the homes of friends and relatives where they would be given some goodies for their party that evening. It was good to see.
As the car was not going to the ship as originally planned we decided we would take a couple of days out and travel southwards through the Namib desert region to Solitaire. Very soon we left the tar road behind and were travelling eastwards on typical gravel roads. The dune areas soon gave way to more rocky and mountainous terrain and after 150 kms we entered the Kuiseb River Pass. This is a pass through the mountains and across the dry river bed. The gorge was absolutely stunning and the different colours in the rock strata had to be seen. The scenery was so different to that of the desert area and there was evidence of the underground water supply in the vegetation. A little further along the road we came to the Goab Pass. This was not so long or as deep as the Kuiseb but still beautiful. After the passes we continued to travel along the edge of the Namib Nauflukt with the colours of the sand changing from cream to red then grey and back to yellow again all due to the mineral content of the ground.
We arrived at Solitaire about 2ish and straight away sampled what we had been told was the best apple pie in the world. Whoever made the recommendation was not far wrong. After a leisurely lunch we made the decision to stay overnight so organised a pitch and spent the rest of the day talking with fellow travellers. I might add that the name of this place is certainly true. There is a fuel station complete with café and a lodge and that is out - right out in the middle of nowhere. Later that night we wandered across the open ground to watch the sun setting over the dunes. What a wonderful experience and what colours.
The return journey the next day was just as spectacular as the journey out and a lot of time was spent taking photos and just looking at the scenery. There were large numbers of Ostrich running along by the roadside and we suddenly came across 3 horses right in the middle of nowhere. Were these the wild horses we had read about or did they actually belong to someone?
On arrival back at Walvis Bay in late afternoon we again went to the shipping office to see what was happening to be told that they wanted the car at 11am on Thursday so finally we knew that all good things were coming to the inevitable end. The next day it was definitely time to pack up the boxes and while doing that made a discovery. Remember my previous comments about spending more Pula than I thought we had? Well we hadn't spent it or lost it - Mike had put it away safely and we now found it in one of the many pockets of his rucksack. A trip to the bank soon relieved him of those Pula which we changed into Namibian Dollars so no need to use the plastic again.
Thursday dawned bright and sunny as usual but today the car was going. It took two and a half hours to sort out the paperwork then we walked back into town and had lunch before returning to Ana's where we spent a quiet relaxing afternoon before having a surprise visit from Cam our landrover friend.
Our final day here was Saturday and we were taken into Swakopmond by Andre and Anamari. This is a lovely old Germanic town with some beautiful buildings and even more interesting shops. I'm quite pleased we hadn't come here at the beginning of the trip otherwise we may not have had any money left for the travelling. It was a lovely way to spend the day and it was rounded off by the family having a Braai for us in the evening when other friends also arrived.
Soon it was Sunday and time to fly. Even writing this makes me feel emotional as I look back on the wonderful experiences we had out there. Will we come back? I honestly hope so but that will have to be discussed when we get home.
Andre and Anamari took us to the airport and we were soon off on the first leg of our journey home. I won't say it was uneventful as having arrived in Frankfurt at some ungodly hour we were told the flight to Manchester had been cancelled. At least BA managed to get us onto another flight pretty quickly so at lunchtime on Monday we arrived back into the UK. Ten weeks of travelling and 8,000 kms of driving were behind us. A truly amazing adventure for two senior citizens.
Next: Some Final Thoughts